Ellen Axson Wilson to Woodrow Wilson

I hope the cablegram which I sent yesterday added to your comfort in that you will now know us to be comfortably settled for more than two weeks,– no more hurried moving from place to place at all, except for the two or three days at Perugia & Assissi on our way to Florence. I found your second dear, dear letter awaiting me one our return to the convent Friday night, and I was overjoyed to get it! I hope mine will reach you as promptly & regularly. I shall number them so that you may know if they “go straight.”– The rest of our little tour went off quite smoothly and satisfactorily. After I wrote you at Sorrento we walked about the charming place; and at night had at the hotel “the Tarentella”—national dances, character songs &c, very pretty and amusing. We hoped it would “draw out” the little queen, but she kept herself close. She is said to be unwell; some others who saw her walking said she had a very “discontented expression.” The next morning we set off early to Capri in an open boat for a time,–which was charming — and then in a steamer. The visit to “the blue grotto” was a perfect success; the colour was all our fancy had painted; the only draw-back is that too many boats go in at once & there is too much shouting & confusion. Capri is very much like Amalfi, but we found the latter more beautiful, chiefly because there we had bluer skies & water. We drove up to Anacapri, a town of villas & gardens at an enormous elevation, and where we had superb views; then we took the boat for Naples arriving at six. It was very amusing to see the English making “afternoon tea” on deck, lighting stoves, boiling water &c. &c; actually on their knees,— prostrating themselves as it were before their national altar! I believe that if instead of the Bay of Naples, heaven opened before them,—or even the other place,—they would go on calmly drinking tea!

Yesterday we had our first serious struggle with luggage and were somewhat worsted. Our train was to leave at 8.20 and we were at the station three quarters of an hour before,–yet we did not succeed in getting our luggage weighed and on in time,–even with the help of a “Cook's man.” We had secured good seats & put Lucy & Jessie to defend them & our “small baggage”, so when I our prospects grew dark I ran back so as not to be separated from Jessie & Lucy came to Mary, as they too preferred to die in each other's arms! They We were to hold the fort & they were to gain it if possible! As I said, they failed & came on later, reaching Rome at three. We arrived at two one & were met by Mary Hoyt, came here & had a good lunch; & then she very kindly went to meet the others. It is only a short way on the train. The trunks were brought up in a queer little hand-wagon & carried up the hundred steps for 20 cts each! It was a dollar each to bring them to Rome,–less than I expected.— The girls had, as usual, made friends and much to my relief had been given luncheon on the way.

This place is shabby in appearance but very comfortable & the food is most tempting. Madame is kindness itself. It is a very shabby little street but well located; the Babarini Palace for instance is just around the corner.–It is a small place & quite full, so that, much to my regret, Marguerite & her mother, whom we left at the convent,—can not get in.

Of course we have not yet “seen Rome” & have “nothing to communicate” on that subject! We slept late and then went to the Presbyterian Church where we heard a splendid sermon by Dr. Cowan, Prof. of church history at the University of Aberdeen. I enjoyed it exceedingly; it seemed especially good to hear such a fine, strong, bracing intellectual address after our ten days of rioting in sensuous beauty; it had a sort of tonic effect. Then we took a short walk at random seeing nothing in particular; and since lunch Mary Hoyt and I have been hard at work with our Baedekers trying to work out a programme for our Roman campaign. The number of things we “ought to see” is certainly appalling. She has turned continental,— went to early mass and then sight-seeing today. She is looking very well and is perfectly happy.

Tomorrow there is to be a great celebration at St. Peters in honour of the 13th centenary of Pope Gregory the Great,—tremendous papal function, high mass of course by the pope & singing by a thousand trained voices. Mary Hoyt managed to get tickets and they go at seven and will have to stand until eleven or twelve. Of course I declined to go,–couldnt possibly stand the fatigue. But now somewhat to my dismay Madame has got a seat for me & I shall have to go I suppose. It was very good in her, but I dread the crowd. I must go in a black dress & veil,— no hat. The others will probably leave before it is over.

But I have been much interrupted since writing this & must now stop & get to bed—since we rise so early in the morning. Besides I have still to write Marguerite; — Just think it is now only six weeks & three days before I start for home,–eight weeks & two days before I reach home! The time is slipping by and how I do enjoy scoring off the days! We will be in Florence on Sat. the 30th of April, & we have already secured rooms at the “Pension Jennings-Riccioli, 37 Corso dei Tintori.”Goodnight, my dear, dear love! How I wish I could tell you how I love you, or with what emotions I read these dear letters of yours! But you know do you not? darling!

We are all perfectly well & the weather is ideal,— neither hot nor cold.