Ellen Axson Wilson to Jessie Woodrow Wilson Sayre

I think this is the time for me to write you but I am a little hazy about it,—if I am mistaken I hope Nellie will pardon me! I know that the last letter came from you and a very entertaining one it was too. I am glad you are all well and enjoying yourselves so much; am sorry Nellie has been upset but very glad it is over. I was quite ill last night myself from this heavy food disagreeing with me;—am all right now only weak & tremulous,—will be as well as ever by tomorrow. The inns are invariably good as regards the beds and service; and a invariably bad as regards the food. That is for one who is not carnivorous. The meats are good but there is nothing else; the bread is terrible—My foot is much better; for the last two days in London it seemed almost well, but the constant walking here has tired it a good deal. I even went to the theatre the night before we left London, and saw a pretty little comedy by John Oliver Hobbes and a gruesome “curtain lifter” taken from one of Poe's stories which almost frightened us to death! It is where two young men go to call on an old friend, a doctor who has a private insane asylum,—(they having been out of the country for some time) The doctor is cordial but very eccentric; he introduces them to his assistant doctors and other helpers all of whom are very queer. There is great hilarity among them, the scene waxing wilder and wilder, until suddenly a thunderstorm, that has been brewing all the time, breaks with great violence, whereupon all these people begin to shriek, and fling themselves on the floor, and behave generally in the most appalling manner, ending by nearly tearing the unhappy young men limb from limb. Just in the nick of time a lot of stalwart fellows in uniform rush in, and, after a stupendous struggle—the doctor especially displaying the strength of ten,—they are all overpowered. It seems that the doctor himself had gone mad a year before! and being very sly as well as powerful had managed to set loose all the patients and imprison all the keepers! The latter had at last effected their escape just in time. The new doctor in charge is still missing but is finally discovered in a closet bound & gagged and almost dead. The whole thing was acted so terribly well, especially by the doctor, that it was positively appalling!—a most extraordinary thing to put on the Stage!When we went to the Museum to see the Elgin marbles we met a young Princeton man who told us Mr Westcott was working there. So we saw him then and the next day had Mr. & Mrs. Westcott to lunch with us to our great enjoyment. They have taken a little cottage in Surrey, and he comes in every day to work. I also met Mrs. nce & her younger boy at the National Gallery. She did not seem to be enjoying herself much,—said she was thankful every night that one more day was gone! Yesterday when we went into lunch Mr. Armour was there with a friend as large as life. As usual he had taken complete possession of everything in sight—and, incidentally, of our table! But it is pleasant to see anyone from home.
We came here Thursday afternoon, have had perfect weather and of course a perfect time. I don't need to mention that the place is enchanting! Rowing on the river and strolling about the “backs” in the glorious sunshine is an experience indescribablye;—and yesterday I had the delight of seeing the watercolours presented by Ruskin to the University. They seemed to me more than pictures—poems as well,—each an exquisite, perfect little lyric. I never enjoyed anything more.
We leave here tomorrow for Warwick and will be in Oxford on Wed. night. Will stay there a week & take it easy. We think we need a good loaf before we start for the continent. With devoted love to all from us both, believe me, my darlings,